2018 f150 stereo upgrade4/10/2024 $0.00 Metra 82-5605 Rear Speaker Adapters (Crutchfield Freebie)Īll of my parts were delivered on, I have replaced all of the factory speakers so far (only broke one clip and snapped one bolt ). $0.00 Metra 82-5607 Front Speaker Adapters (Crutchfield Freebie) $39.99 Rockford Fosgate Prime R1675X2 6-3/4" 2 Way Speakers (Rear Doors) $69.99 Rockford Fosgate Prime R1675-S 6/3/4" Component System (Front Doors & Pillars) $239.98 Rockford Fosgate P2D4-8 (x2) Subwoofers $112.49 Rockford Fosgate RFK4D Dual Amplifier Wiring Kit $60.98 Rockford Fosgate PLC2 (x2) Remote Level Controllers $349.99 Rockford Fosgate T400X4AD (Door Speakers) $539.99 AudioControl DM-608 Digital Signal Processor) I was running a PAC line Converter, 5 channel amplifier, Kappa door speakers front and rear (not component), and a 10" subwoofer in a sealed center console enclosure.įor some people the B&O system my be good enough, for the other 99.9% that want to upgrade, here's my parts list from. Let me say, it will be very hard to go back to any factory stereo after my last truck. My last truck was a 2009 XLT that I installed a complete Infinity Kappa sound system in. If I had to guess, I would say about a quarter of the frequencies heard by the human ear are being eliminated by the B&O signal processor so the cheap paper speakers can better handle music. This is by far the worst sounding "premium" stereo system I have ever owned or even heard. I bought it one day before I left on a 650 mile drive to Tampa Florida from Asheville North Carolina (figured it would make the drive more comfy )Ībout half way through the trip, I had had enough, reached up to the dash and turned the radio off. I didn't find much info so I figured I would join and post a thread on how I wired the truck and how it sounds.įirst let me say, I have had this truck for 10 days. Well thats it for now.New member to the Ecoboost forum, but I've been trolling the threads for a looking to see if anyone had replaced the B&O stereo system in the 2018 model trucks. I bought KnuKonceptz connectors with the screw set. couldnt find my heat gun so I used the toaster over. I cut a piece off to run to battery to the inline fuse all purty like. Ill probably trim some more off after when I decide where the amp lands. And even after I ran the cable all the to the drivers side of the back and left a little slack I cut it and had 5 feet left. It was a 20 foot cable ( I bought a 20 so I would enough left over for a ground wire). I couldnt find it on the inside but then my 15 year old reached up and found it first try! I proceeded to run it down the passenger side in the well underneath the coversthen behind the carpet along the back behind the back seats. I used a fish tape from outside the truck into the cab. it's hot out there!įord gave us a PERFECT place to run the wire right behind the battery on the firewall with a perfectly places and sized grommet (it will fit 0 gauge for sure too). I absolutely will be changing them in phase 2. I am not changing the stock speakers in the first phase. I am using a Alpine S-W10D4 subwoofer wired to 2OHMĦ. I have a Fox Acoustics ported 10" Fox Boxĥ. I am re-using my Pioneer D9605 amplifier that I had in my last truck (07 Chevy Avalanche) - it's a 5 channel amp with 75x4 (4OHM) and 600x1 (2OHM).Ĥ. I am using HUSH AUDIO CK11 pre-built harness (recommended as it looks freaking clean as hell!)ģ. I have a pretty clear plan, I am just documenting it because you never know if it will help someone else.ġ. First, I am not looking for advice but its always welcome.
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